Each cylinder in a four stroke engine fires every other revolution--- 1 and 4 are exactly one crankshaft revolution apart. In my experience, I have never seen the field coil on the upper right fail--only the coil on the lower left seems to fail. Back to the motor shop. Anyone have a complete wiring diagram for this model?? It wouldn't hurt to coat the pole pieces with a light coat of grease where they touch the exciter housing. This circuit is very simple to understand, troubleshoot, and repair.
This process always works for us! I didn't take any photos of the aluminum winding-to-copper lead wires connections so you'll have to take my word for it but there was absolutely no corrosion present at any of them. Both measurements should be identical. All references to named machines, torches, other products, and part numbers are provided for the convenience of our customers only and do not imply any affiliation with or endorsement by these companies. If the fine-current control rheostat is not defective, the next step is to check the exciter shunt coils. Close up of the corroded failed winding. The same timing mark on the flywheel will work equally well for either.
We do everything from paint jobs and powder coatings, to rebuilding engine drives, to the simplest of repairs. A little scraping away of the corrosion soon resulted in the wire breaking so how long do you think it would have lasted once pressed back into service if not replaced? Troubleshooting the Exciter Armature: You will occasionally find a defective exciter armature; here is what to look for with the most common problems. If you do not find any shorts to ground, it could still be defective. Make sure you are not touching the leads with your fingers: you could be reading the resistance of your body. You can find many such examples on our. If you get no resistance, go to the next higher range. If you find a splice, the coils have never been checked for continuity.
Resistance readings: With the right brush removed from the brush holder, the following readings will tell you certain things. You are likely going to cause a spark: batteries may have pockets of internal hydrogen gas. The guides are grouped by machine or engine. The same timing mark on the flywheel will work equally well for either. It doesn't matter at all which of the two you clip your timing light to.
They do not have to be painted. It is not normal for the brushes to deposit enough carbon powder to contaminate the commutator. The whole control circuit is a series connected system. Call us for discounted shipping rates. Line up the T mark in slot hole behind the air cleaner using a timing light with engine running high idle 1550 rpm.
The rule is at 1500 rpm is + or -. Both coils with the insulation and inner wrap off. If you think about it, there is absolutely no difference. One of the wires will show continuity between the lead and the rheostat. Open coil that prompted their replacement is on the left.
You are currently viewing as a guest which gives you limited access to view discussions To gain full access to our community you must ; for a free account. Note: a properly maintained commutator should be the color of used burnished penny. The exciter coils are deep inside the stator housing. What this does is tell us if there is an open broken circuit. This wire connects to one side of the welder shunt coils there are two of them, one on one side of the housing, the other one opposite of the first. I'll try to scan the timing from manuals to put on here later. Clean the commutator with a commutator cleaning stone.
It doesn't matter at all which of the two you clip your timing light to. . If the coil is good, one wire will show resistance, the other will not-this is normal. If the armature is defective, ; we have rebuilt armatures. Leads me to believe anything under 4800 was 6 volt. You apparently can not read or do not understand firing order.