Or even better leave them on, disconnected from the rear system, and remove them with the head. What is not shown on the temperature gauge is that the water in the cylinder head is boiling, as it is not being cooled by the water flowing through the radiator only. You may need to use a penlight to see well enough. Remove the retaining ring and press out piston pin. Keep us in the loop---your right on track with it all--wish I hads me one of those shiney things to hook up----I noticed above the head gasket was coming apart in layers--was that right--with the valves and that gasket--looks like you jumped in at the right time--you'll have another 150k miles to go now--- Question--on your intake--where does the hose from the purge valve hook up on the intake that is--Keep up the good work and pics There was some leakage through or around the gasket. As far as the intake. This will position all the pistons at a safe distance from the valves, and will prevent any possibility accidentally bending a valve during the procedure.
All the proper tools and Bentley manuals will be used. Assembly sequence for removal and installation is different. Risk of cracking and distorted tightening values. Even though there is lube on the lifter faces, I will usually smear some assembly lube on the cam lobes as well. Use a wrench or ratchet at E4 and E6, finger tighten only at E1.
Undo the clip at the bulkhead pipework. I'm not touching the bottom end at all. Insert the crank tool 11 in 2470. The of the largest variant increased from 2. Very little of the motors heat is absorbed into this water. The piston pin must be pushed through the bushing tap of a finger, and have no visible gap with it.
The picture is of the intake cam, but the same idea can be used here on the exhaust cam. Each has 2 nuts securing it, accessible after removing the flush trim concealing them. What You Get With top of the line equipment and decades of experience, you're guaranteed to receive only the very highest quality work on the market! I know it will seem redundant, but I will be using the exact same instruction wording for the intake cam. At first it may seem awkward to remove but you just need to stick your hand in blind, feel for the plastic end and squeeze it in. This guide attempts to present a step by step guide to M54 engine removal.
Align piston rings offset at approx. Disconnecting the engine took me 3. The car has never overheated. In 2002 and 2003, the M54 topped the. After all the caps have been lightly tightened you can go back and torque them all to 14Nm-10.
Align the crank pin and connecting rod. Note: The figure shows the position of the crankshaft without. One end of the cam has a square flange. If the E1 cap does not start to rise right away, equal to the other two caps, give the end of the cam a little tap with a rubber mallet or your fist to pop it loose. Oil in the cooling system can also occur depending on the pressure differential, where the radiator cap gets oil coagulating on it. Remove the lid from the wiring centre. The values decrease as the temp rises.
Cars with closed loop O2 sensors can often pull timing when running on bad fuel giving the vehicle a sluggish feel. Remove the F-connector with both hoses still connected from the air intake boot. Very curious to see if there are any power gains when all is said and done. Finger tightening allows enough force to pull the thrust flanges into place, but does not unevenly load the cam at that end like wrench tightening would do. Do not rotate more than the approximately 40 degrees shown.
Lightly Lubricate pistons and piston rings. Remove all journal caps except E4, E6 and E1. We will repeat the process with the intake cam. The original Bosh were too hot. Connecting rods and bearing caps marked with the same numbers in the selection of a pair and must be installed together. Use a wrench or ratchet at A3 and A5, finger tighten only at A1. I have the cam locking tool also.