You can see mine leaking already after it was power washed. The reason is these 2 at the front have clips inside the sub frame that secure them, these rust because of the cheap metal causing the bolt to just spin without releasing. So Jake from Motiv has decided to work with me and help make that happen. There seems to be no way to do it properly without dropping the front subframe unless your going to cut the gasket, but I would never do it like that. It has now been 3 months and I still have not received my kit. So, unless you have a high quality torque wrench, and one you know works I would skip the torqueing process.
Maybe just give it a quarter turn or re-torque it to see if it will stop leaking as a quick fix? Just can't find the energy to take an X5 apart. As you can see I have some logistics to sort out with the steering column. What Palariev did is moved the engine inside for turbo downpipes and oil pan to clear the subframe, then made custom engine mounting arms. Clearances are on points so far but of course we will remeasure prior to installation. This will allow it to move for the oil pan later. Thanks for the extra input. Remove the crank seal for access to installing the drill fixture and shortened bolt.
From what I see on Amazon and other sources, most 3 point bars show a 700 lb capacity while many of the two point bars show 1000+ lbs. Be careful not to oversize the rod end connections to ensure there is no play or rattle. That one bolt's clamping force is not going to significantly or at all impact overall gasket sealing, so all you need to focus on is sealing the bolt. Then clean the area and go for a drive and see how you go and most importantly let us know :P I'm going to try this and hope it works right now it leaks about 1 quart in about 50 miles. The person stated that they were being coated and would be shipped that week This was stated last week. I left a down payment to start the process back in August and was given a 3-4 week time frame until it would be done. This kit includes much more than others.
I'm going to try this and hope it works right now it leaks about 1 quart in about 50 miles. In the case of failure, the bits are readily available at Mcmaster Carr or through us. You basically support the engine from the top, disconnect all electrical harnesses in the wheel wells, brake lines, unbolt the strut tops from the tower, unbolt the lower engine mounts, and then unbolt the sub frame and lower it. The shining stuck aluminum can be seen in your photo. Can you tell me the weight capacity and brand? You will be credited for your original invoice amount, less any discounts received. Remove the front wheels and unplug the sensor on the drivers side lower control arm. You can rent a brace to support the engine from up top.
Just to be sure I contacted my bank and started the dispute. Make sure you start them by hand as to not cross thread anything. Removing the driver engine mount, 2. This I where you would also replace the oil level sensor seal. Remove all the oil pan bolts.
Insert the drill bit inside the install tool so that it protrudes slightly further than the dowel length, putting some tape or a sharpie mark on the drill bit to provide a suggested stop point. Nothing eminent but a likely required repair sometime in the future, if I keep the car that long. They should be pried off from the bolts with a pick or similar before reusing the bolts to get good rethreading. Keep in mind the torque specs are basically hand tight. The center rotating bearing housing is designed to work with factory oil lines and coolant lines.
I would suggest you set your torque wrench to 12nm as their stock torque is like 8nm + 90 degrees or something like that. If you want to read about my journey converting my N54 to single turbo, check out. The goal being a 3100 pound car with somewhere around ~550 wheel horsepower and a 6-speed manual. Any recommendations on how to extract? The reason I mentioned it is as above when I did my valve cover, I actually couldn't see anything wrong with the gasket and probably could have gotten away with just replacing the bolts, which is what I'm going to do to my oil pan this time. Now remove the bolts for the engine mounts. This eliminates the possibility of damaging the dowel pins during the torque procedure, and it stops you from twisting the entire crank during the install process. What I mean is bolt being steel, its thread is not damaged.
If we are able to obtain permission to cancel or return the part, we reserve the right to charge a restocking fee of up to 25% Confused about brands? So im looking into a single turbo. Remove the 3 screws that are accessible holding the engine cover. Whats amazing is that i daily drive my car. I would recommend switching to a thicker oil as well depending on what your using I would go to a 5w-40. But I had only changed the engine mounts though. Thanks for the excellent write up! Final step is to get my turbos balanced and reassembled then the swap is good to go Some rear end shots of the rattle can baby. However, I did change the motor and trans mounts.
Same routine working them back and forth gradually until they come out. Engine comes out in about 12 hours time when I wake up Pulling out the M52 Cleaning the engine bay. Best case scenario the motor needs to be re-timed with new components. N54 M6x20 Replace screws Thread repairs exclusively with Al Helicoil Jointing torque and angle of rotation must be observed without fail. Make sure you wipe any chips or debris that could accumulate at the inside of the front of the motor on the passenger side. With carpet in the car these center console snugs right in place I didnt get a good view of how far out the E46 dash came out but I know the door panels have an indent for the dash, this may fit with E46 door panels.