I have paid so much money to the dealership and they have not found out what is wrong with it. And, of course, the car ran flawlessly. Watch for glitches in their graphs. Only give advice on something you believe to be true. When you're driving, that end of the dash is blocked by the closed door. I have a Vauxhall corsa 1. I would strongly suggest that you contact your local Certified Pontiac Service Center and have them look into this for you.
I was told I should have when I replaced the intake manifold. It is extremely frustrating and not to mention dangerous. Watch the throttle sensors and see if they match. But I also did some sea… Do you notice any engine pinging when going uphill? Sharing personal information, or specifics on is not allowed. This will set a trouble code and often times limit input by the driver to avoid engine damage. I have a serious problem.
Those who demonstrate they cannot follow the rules will be warned and posts removed. The car is driving 70-80 mph now so very strange anyone have any ideas? The other day, my wife told me there was something wrong with her car 2012 Chevy Malibu. Sometimes it will kick it out of the Power Reduced Mode, but the engine light will stay on. Welcome to the electronic age! I know with the code reader there is some lag but it looked like the sensors were reading 1 to 1. All three point to the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor.
How embarrassing, I have owned this car for 9 years and have had it serviced regularly, but never before changed the fuel filter. Or if it gets worse, it can also sound louder, and like someone is rattling a metal soup can filled with nickles in the engine compartment. I have a 2004 trailblazer and when im driving the check engine light stays on and I can get a little ways Nd reduced engine power light comes on and it starts sputtering and I lose power! No issues on the way home but I took it really easy. A quite noticeable clattering sound in other words. And underneath the car where the starter is. Now, with the throttle body, there can be similar problems and problems that are unique to just the throttle body.
I'm pretty sure it's the throttle position sensor. There are many, many service bulletins that address all of these problems, so taking your vehicle to the dealership is always recommended when you have an issue like this to get it corrected quickly and accurately. There is only 2 bolts on top, 2 nuts on bottom, 1 electrical connection, and 1 hose clamp. And the sensor was not aligning with the accelerator sensor causing the fault?? Its a conductive anti-corrosion surface treatment. In some cases you need to pull over immediately to prevent damage while in others you merely need to tighten you gas cap next time you stop in order to reset the service engine soon light.
Car starts but acceleration is slow and dies every time you hit the brake. It does have a misfire and does have a tick when starting it up. Otherwise, I would recommend a performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs. Figured I would do this while I had everything apart. I replaced it myself as well as the accelerator pedal sensor due to the codes that pop up and I am still receiving the same codes. My understanding is the reduced power is related to the electronic throttle control, as those have a fully electronic throttle body with no throttle cable.
So I parked the car and let it cool down for the afternoon while I was at the beach and went back 4 hours later and drove it home. Anyone ever come across this issue before? They won't pay for the damage that can result to your car because it can run into the hundreds of dollars. Finally solved it by repairing a bad battery ground. If that isn't available, provide all you know and explain why. Didn't know to look at that until I read the thread above. After finding this article and reading all you have replaced and have been through with this issue, I can only imagine how frustrated you must be! Its turning over and getting fuel but wont start… please help.
Steady Check Engine Light: If your check engine light is on every time you operate your Grand Prix, you need to have it checked as soon as possible, especially if you notice performance problems or unusual noises. I had to disconnect the battery each time to get it out of limp mode and was quite frustrated at the end. The old one was 2 years old. All of these need to communicate with each other properly so as to deliver the proper throttle angle input by the driver. My vehicle would randomly go into a low power mode. I did a search but couldn't find the answer to my question on this.
Is there anything I can do? This model features a 3. Or maybe just put shit back to where they came from?? This will allow people to filter out posts that have already been resolved so they can move on to other posts that still need assistance. I could feel the reduced power, as if a cylinder or two wasn't working. I took the air filter out and replaced with new. The code comes as tps correlation or misconfiguration and pedal accelerator sensor. A pretty common fault is the throttle body itself, but it could be the pedal sensor or some other sensor like maf or map.
A lot of the bailing around the wires was disintegrating the car is old afterall but the wires were not worn through or frayed. I tried other things I read other places. If it's got wheels, treads, floats, flies, or has an engine you're good to go. A cleaning can sometimes help the stalling or low idle issue, but if there is a code set, it is going to need replaced. Any updates on figuring out what the problem is? Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions for me. . There are performance errors, position errors, and many other things that can go wrong inside the throttle body.